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No Roads Blog
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Life as a Kokoda Guide and Front Line Worker

This year, like many others, I had my year planned out. I was going to guide 4 trips to PNG and also had plans to join another remote trek to test my limits and gain a new perspective on the beauty of the world around us.  Instead, all plans were put on hold as the world and travel as we know it ceased due to a pandemic. 

Kokoda Trekking

Whoever would have thought that we’d be locked down because of a virus that could not only kill but would change the world so dramatically.  Welcome to the new world of Covid-19.

I always say I have the best job in the world, being a guide with No Roads Expeditions, and sharing the pristine environment and historical story of the Kokoda Track with others. However, for now, that job is on hold, all plans put aside, and instead, it’s back to my other job, being a nurse. 

For me, I’ve put my trekking plans aside and returned to working full time in an emergency department. Emergency departments in the midst of a Covid pandemic is like walking Kokoda for the first time.  We have no idea what’s ahead of us, how difficult the challenge will be, or how long the pain will last, but we do know, however difficult the challenge, there will be an end to it one day.  We just don’t know when. 

Nurses with mask

Emergency departments are frantic at the best of times.  You never know what’s coming through the door, and, like Kokoda, the environment can change in a second. The workload has changed dramatically as we isolate patients in a setting that was never designed to treat patients in this way. Words like donning and doffing have entered our vernacular and bio buddies have become our saviours.  Like the PNG Guides who keep us safe while walking the track, the bio buddies are always there to shadow our every move and protect us from the potential viral attack.

Regardless of the changes around us, people still get sick and need emergency care.  The usual ailments of chest pain and respiratory conditions are all complicated by the presence of a cough or fever, typical symptoms of Covid-19. While there are no weekend sports injuries, there’s been many broken bones from the adventurous ones who have enjoyed the outdoors during lockdown.

PNG Kids and teacher

Many say it’s been overkill, as the Government has taken liberties away.  Relatives express frustrations as we limit contact and prevent the freedom of coming and going as they please.  Why? To protect you all.  To make sure the pattern of exposure that’s been demonstrated throughout the world was not replicated here.  To ensure that you are not exposed to a virus that could endanger your life and those who you hold most dear.

On the frontline as an emergency nurse has brought so many changes and it’s been much more exhausting than walking my favourite hills of Kokoda.  Every minute of care is planned out, and the need for additional staff to cover short falls has seen me working 50 hour weeks to support my colleagues.  Much like the story of Kokoda, the frontline staff have banded together to support our mates, and more importantly, keep you all safe.

Oh what I’d give to be back in the Owen Stanley right now.  I miss the noise of the Birds of Paradise hidden in the jungle, the sight of the hills, the laughter of the children with no care in the world, the muffled noises of the boys talking around the fire, and the beautiful sounds of their singing that rings into the cold night air.  All the things that initially attracted me to this remote world.  Not a day goes by when I don’t think of them all and hope that they are all safe and that we can return soon.

Nurse with mask

For many, lockdown has been hard, losing jobs, losing business and losing contact with friends.  Like the hills of Kokoda, they are all still there, and if we’re lucky, those unique moments will soon return.  We’re all in this together right?  I live in hope that one day soon the borders will open and we can return to that remote travel experience that we all love.

Lockdown has brought some unique moments too, giving us time to recharge, and allowing us to discover new ways to keep in touch and share special moments with family and friends. I experienced a unique birthday and delivered an ANZAC service for my coworkers.  Not the Bomana service that I was due to be at but special and I am grateful for having the opportunity to share it with my fellow nurses.

Stay safe and we will soon be once again creating adventure every day 

Robyn Marklew